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VENETOR CLASS STAR DESTROYER . VENETOR CLASS STAR DESTROYER 115 CM LONG USING 5564 PARTS TO CREATE IT; SOLVING SOME PROBLEMS WHEN ASSEMBLING AND IMPROVING THE LOOKS OF THE THRUSTERS. . Building this Venetor was rather easy. This is a popular ship and building instructions exist in Ldraw version and LDD version. (Bob Kos made ldd instructions, his version is not exactly the same as mine but you should get started with his instructions, tiling and changing the engines ...look at the pictures) So you can choose. While building I found the use of magnets to keep the top and bottom plates close to the inside structure rather difficult and even at some times frustrating. So I changed this and worked with Bionicle hinges. They are solid, strong and are difficult to tear apart. That worked perfectly. The result is a firmly build model that does not mind being carried around (and does not fall apart. ) This build is just a warm-up exersize for the larger model from Varzegi I like to build. Currently I'm making building instructions on LDD for this huge model. I'm almost halfway, but there is still a lot to be done. In fact the structure of the larger model is almost the same but if you want you can add some metal structure inside. But assembling is close to the larger one. I hope these pictures will be helpfull for all those who want to build this very interesting model. I have used tiles to finish the top. These tiles are not on the instructions. Notice that apart from 6 wedge plates this model has been build in old grays. Using different types of Bionicle hinges made it possible to keep things well together. The size of the plates are of importance. The larger you work the better it can stand pressure. Another picture of the engines. White round bricks are missing in the MLcad file. Inside the bricks I've put a axle. Both feet are important as they carry the structure and hold the underside together at the same time. The black axle goes through the technic brick of the feet . The top plates are held in possition by just some bricks (round or other) They fit just inside and behind the frame. This pin going through this technic brick holds the top plates down closely to the frame. Scroll down and see how its done. I found the engines not so enteresting and put some modifications to them. There were lacks in the building instructions of the engines, so I had to use my imagination. In the front nose part all parts come together and using this technic piece was the only way to make it fit. I've removed the sideframe so you can see how top center and under part are held together Here you can see the pin put into the second hole of the technic brick. Behind this brick fits another technic brick attached to the top plate (see pictures higher) Pushing the pin ties together both large pieces. Work gently because otherwise the brick might fall. This picture shows the tiny 1x1 altered plate (clip) that holds the top plate even better closer to the frame.


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