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Citroen 2CV Charleston . A 1:8 Scale model of my new toy. . EDIT: A new, improved version of this model can be found here. Shed a tear, friends, for the passing of my (t)rusty old yellow 2cv. After 10 years together, it finally died of the dreaded tinworm. It was quite rusty when I bought it, so it did well. Naturally, I was bereft... Grief counselling did no good, so I bought another one; a 1988 Charleston (so named after it's Art Deco inspired paint job - appropriate given it was designed in the 1930s..) It is of course my duty to immortalize it in Lego. Enjoy. As you can see, this one's not rusty at all... The model is my most functional yet, so talk amongst yourselves while I bore you with the details ;-) Everything opens.. all four doors will latch closed as well. Most things in this picture have a purpose. Working steering, of course; there's also the twin speed transmission controlled by the gear lever (yes it is in the right place...), a working handbrake beneath that (this works on the model by locking the transmission), the black gear wheel adjusts the lights (a feature of the real one) and the radio plays tunes (no it doesn't..) The interior really is that basic... everything you need and nothing you don't. A good size boot/trunk... ...with a false floor and surprisingly futuristic spare wheel beneath... All the seats come out easily, so 'le famille' may enjoy 'le pique-nique'. And that's as good as my French gets, I'm afraid... Most of the grey tiles in this picture came from Dan the Man - thanks Dan - your plates are on their way... Bonnet up - let's see what's under here... (do we have to ?) YES WE DO! The flat twin engine is present and correct... all 29.5 bhp of it. The fan is indeed on the end of the crankshaft - it's supposed to be. This is driven by the front wheels through a two speed transmission. Also under here are the lights adjustment and handbrake mechanisms... Suspension all around, although with front drive it's difficult to do with 1980s pieces - the front should be independent but this is effectively a live axle; the only way to do it if you want a good steering lock... 2cv springs are lovely and soft, with a large amount of travel; and so are this model's... this leads to great comfort, poise and hilarious roll angles... That exhaust is indeed the size of a pea shooter... Which is handy for plugging this in to control the HOG steering - it works from inside as well.. The lights adjust from the cabin in all 2CVs (including this one) to compensate for load. Here it is looking slightly sad (maybe because I've just noticed one of the over-riders is a bit squiffy..) And now it's happy again... I did build a roof for it... .. but it's better without on a sunny day! (we do get them sometimes...) Now here it is next to my old yellow model, making it look a little basic, but I think still an object with some charm... And this is the car it's usually parked next to... ...in my dream garage! And now I'm being ridiculous. I'll stop now. Thanks all for your undying patience. In response to a special request from MortalSwordsman, here's some views and an explanation of how I did the front suspension / steering / drive. Feel free to skip this bit unless you're a TechnicHead... The suspension of a 2cv is all independent - this is a live axle located by leading arms, into which is built a steering rack. The wheel carriers are attached to the frame of the axle with 2x2 turntables above and below the UJ for the driveshaft. These carriers are then braced by liftarm triangles, as this is where the force is exerted. Because of the way these are built over and under the plates from the frame, the frame is strong enough without bracing, although for a Jeep, you might want to add some. This system works very well - good steering lock, reliable drive and nothing falls off - however the ground clearance under the brick-built steering rack support slung under the frame is an issue. If you have the clearance above it, it's just as easy to do it that way round to get around this problem. Whether you can then put an engine above that with a low enough bonnet is anyone's guess... One thing to bear in mind is that it's a good idea to minimize the angle of the suspension arm at rest, as it does do funny things to the wheels' camber as it's steered otherwise. Plenty of clearance above it is a good idea, probably more than you see here.. Transmission of drive and the steering column have to be articulated across the pivot point of the suspension arm. The system I've used here of gears that tilt with the arm but remain in constant mesh with those above is simply to save space so that I could get a flat floor inside the car. In my 4x4 Jeep, this is done with simple UJs. Hope this helps and good luck with your Jeep, Joe! Just let me know if you need anything else.


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