SMG instructions part 2: The frame: A LEGO® creation by Nate Andrews : MOCpages.com

SMG instructions part 2: The frame

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Here's the hard part! Don't forget, I had to take out the hammer, because it made the frame very, very fragile. You can add an internal hammer if you order the instructions from Brickgun, though. I don't think I should show you how the hammer works, since it's Brickgun's design and it might be copyrighted. But don't let that stop you! Remember, you can buy an instruction manual at Brickgun.com to see how the hammer works.

About this creation

Before you start, I'd like to point something out. You see those 1x6 plates in the middle of the layout? I know I could have used a 2x6, but I'll explain why I built it this way later.

Section complete! You can set this aside until later.

Section complete.

Section complete! Now it's time to put these three sections together.

Section complete.... well, sort of. You'll need this again pretty soon, so keep it handy.

Another section complete!

I don't know if I've mentioned it before, but the bolt and the trigger are both rubber band powered. (that's old-school!) That's what the hooks inside the frame and under the bolt are for. Just hook the two pieces together with a small rubber band, and test the bolt to make sure it works.

The completed bolt assembly.

The trigger works the same way as the bolt. Just loop another rubber band through the 2-stud axle on top of the trigger and the hook up inside the frame. Here you can see why I used those 1x6 plates behind the trigger instead of a 2x6. The trigger needs a smooth surface to slide back and forth on, like that ridge made by those 1x6 plates when you put them side by side. The tigger would skip across the circles on the bottom of a 2x6, so be sure to use these plates instead.

Remember, you won't be able to test the trigger until you finish the grip and add it to the frame. The instructions for the grip are coming up next, by the way.