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Large scale armor building guide
time to give you guys some tips and instructions on how to build some of the components.
About this creation
This page will continue to be updated with new techniques and components that can help assist you build large scale vehicles.
Points that i will cover on

  • scaling a model

  • suspension

  • drivetrain

  • transmissions


  • 1. scaling a model

    heres the basic formula that I use

    (L/S)/8= X

    L=actual length in mm
    S= scale ex.(1/20)=20
    X=length in studs
    the 8 is for width of studs use 9.6 if scaling height

    other helpful stuff
    1 in=2.54 cm
    Usually when scaling I first find the dimensions or the tracks to scale the whole build (because lego only offers 2 types of tracks 3 wide and 5 wide)
    I also look at bluprints of the vehicle from front,side,rear,top.
    Function over size
    Sometimes it's better to have a better function than to fit inside of the perimeter


    2. suspension



    VVSS suspension
    used on american vehicles ex. M4 sherman





    suspended bogie
    used on russian vehicles ex. T-28





    Trailing arm
    Instead of using torsion bars this is what is use for my german vehicles ex. Panther





    Christie
    used on British and russian vehicles ex. cruiser series, BT series








    3. Drivetrain

    The drive train is one of the most important parts of the vehicle because it drives the tracks; therefore it should be heavily reinforced to prevent damaging the rest of the build when there is lots of torque applied to the axle.

    depending on if you use a transmission or not will conserve more space. The basic setup I use in most of my vehicles is 2 XL motors connected to the final drives with a 5;1 ratio or a 8t gear connected to a 40t gear

    If you decide to use a transmission then the ratios that I use is a 20:12 or 24:8
    keep in mind that tanks aren't sports cars so if you use a gear ratio that has a faster output speed than the drive motor then the vehicle's torque will decrease.

    It's important to keep in mind where the vehicles drive sprocket is located because if you want to make the vehicle more realistic.


    4. Transmission

    the transmission that i use is a modified variant of Sariel's heavy-duty 2 speed transmission.


    build 2 of these



    you can use 3 stud long axles where the 4 stud ones are but i use those for connecting the 2 transmissions together


    I used 1x2 axle connectors to link the transmissions together, and don't forget to link the gear selectors together

    also if there is any other stuff that you want me to add mention it



Comments

 I made it 
  July 29, 2014
Quoting Jarno Moleveld Finally some suspensions for tanks! I was working on a tank but it was nose heavy on the suspension I used. So could use some fresh ideas on this! Havn't thought about adding in a transmission though, perhaps for later. I am currently more worried about the drivetrain itself. For some odd reason it keeps ripping off parts and leaves it dead in the water, or it keeps slightly steering to the side even if it should be going straight ahead. Real headache part of the build.
To solve the problem with "tearing itself apart" check all connections where gears mesh in the drivetrain. make sure these points are reinforced with technic parts so they won't come apart under stress. For the steering issue it could be a lack of torque problem (increase the gear ratio or if using M motors in a heavy tank; think about replacing with XL motors) or check the batteries in the battery box and in the remote ( it could be a signal problem too) make sure the IR receivers are exposed on the top and that there isn't too much sunlight ( if using outside). For the Front heavy issue, use the yellow shock absorbers or use shorter torsion bars.
 I like it 
  July 29, 2014
Finally some suspensions for tanks! I was working on a tank but it was nose heavy on the suspension I used. So could use some fresh ideas on this! Havn't thought about adding in a transmission though, perhaps for later. I am currently more worried about the drivetrain itself. For some odd reason it keeps ripping off parts and leaves it dead in the water, or it keeps slightly stearing to the side even if it should be going straight ahead. Real headache part of the build.
 I like it 
  March 20, 2014
nice! to bad im no longer using my lego's but still, nice!
 I made it 
  March 20, 2014
Quoting Max The Owl I see what you mean, but My subtractor runs with two drive motors, two differentials, and a few bevel gears and I haven't broken anything yet.
But do any of your tanks weigh 9 Lbs.
  March 20, 2014
I see what you mean, but My subtractor runs with two drive motors, two differentials, and a few bevel gears and I haven't broken anything yet.
 I made it 
  March 20, 2014
Quoting Max The Owl This is a very good guide, but it might be worth mentioning a subtractor. I find that having one is more realistic, reduces the friction in the drive-train substantially, makes better use of what little power the Lego motors displace, and is more realistic. I love your tanks by the way. Keep up the good work!
I have used a adder-subtractor in the past but the main problem is that subtractors suffer from having 1 drive motor so they have less torque. They also have very weak parts (diffrential casings, and bevel gears) also I have thought about building stronger diffrential casings with small turntables, but those would be too bulky.
 I like it 
  March 20, 2014
This is a very good guide, but it might be worth mentioning a subtractor. I find that having one is more realistic, reduces the friction in the drive-train substantially, makes better use of what little power the Lego motors displace, and is more realistic. I love your tanks by the way. Keep up the good work!
 I made it 
  March 15, 2014
Quoting BDS plc Thanks for making this guide. It is useful indeed. Few tips about accurate scaling: first get a blueprint of the vehicle for most accurate modelling, second the scale is determined by tracks or roadwheels you use. You can not choose scale arbitrarily.
I should add those points because I first scale from the tracks to determine the overall scale of the build.
  March 14, 2014
Thanks for making this guide. It is useful indeed. Few tips about accurate scaling: first get a blueprint of the vehicle for most accurate modelling, second the scale is determined by tracks or roadwheels you use. You can not choose scale arbitrarily.
 I like it 
  March 14, 2014
That'll come in handy...
 I like it 
  March 14, 2014
Can't wait for more! I wonder how you would do the VVSS for minifig-scale...I basically have a Christie suspension on my fig-scale tank right now.
 I made it 
  March 14, 2014
Quoting Gabor Pauler Torsion bars can't be modeled using long technic axles instead of using shock absorber?
I just used the shock absorbers because it takes up less space in the hull and you have a farther travel distance for the suspension arms. I will add some torsion bar pics though.
 I like it 
  March 14, 2014
Torsion bars can't be modeled using long technic axles instead of using shock absorber?
 I like it 
  March 14, 2014
I can't wait for more! Even if there's no way I'll ever be able to build at such scales, this is really awesome.
 I like it 
  March 13, 2014
...genius... utter genius! I'm not good with technic, thanks for the pointers! They are amazing!
 I made it 
  March 13, 2014
more components will be added but i just have to build them
 
By Tommy Styrvoky
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LEGO models my own creation MOCpages toys shop Large scale armor building guide


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