Mech Factory Frame
Comments
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I like it |
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July 3, 2012 |
Thanks to Nils O. i opened it with firefox and it downloaded without a problem. |
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By the way, the download worked perfectly on my Mac... I have the latest LDD (V4.2.5), Mac OS 10.6.8 (Snow Leopard) and Firefox 12.0 |
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I like it |
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June 28, 2012 |
That's a very clever basic frame. Thanks for posting! Great job! :-)) |
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I made it |
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June 27, 2012 |
yep that might be it - i've heard of other MAC users having download issues - chekc MOCpages help to see if anyone has had a simialr issue
Quoting Levi Koeppel
i have version 4.2 but all that comes up when i click the link is a page of weird characters. does it have any connection with my having a Mac computer?
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I like it |
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June 27, 2012 |
i have version 4.2 but all that comes up when i click the link is a page of weird characters. does it have any connection with my having a Mac computer?
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I made it |
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June 27, 2012 |
make sure you have the latest version of LDD installed this was created with the latest version - it should work I think its ver 4.2.
Quoting Levi Koeppel
Hey, i am having a problem downloading the model to my LDD. do you have any tips on how i can do it?
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I like it |
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June 27, 2012 |
Hey, i am having a problem downloading the model to my LDD. do you have any tips on how i can do it? |
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I like it |
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June 23, 2012 |
very nice |
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I like it |
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June 8, 2012 |
The rubberized ones are great--and they will work on models up to about 12-14" high with a modest amount of weight on them. I wouldn't use them on my Freedom Gundam because of the heavy weight of the backpack, unless I was planning to have it do aerial poses with a stand, but something like your Mk II would probably be the right size and weight. Make sure you clean them first before you use them. If they are old and dusty, they won't have the friction you need to support the weight of the mech. Other than that, I've had no problems with them. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/273999 This frame uses them and should generate a mech about the same size as the Mk II. |
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I like it |
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June 7, 2012 |
Thanks Chris, this is really helpful! I had been wondering how you dealt with the hips too. Your neck solution is nice and compact as well, if I use it I will credit you. I think I'll go and sign up for your mech contest now... |
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I made it |
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June 6, 2012 |
r you sure the rubber coated ball sockets are that strong - i have a few but i didn't think to use them as hips for large MOCs
Quoting Mithryl Altaire
So, is that why your gundams have bent-knee stances in most pics? The search for the perfect hip-joint continues, I suppose. Incidentally, my favorite hip joint is currently the ball-joints that use the rubberized socket pieces. They can hold nearly as much weight as the exo-force click joints, but have the added benefit of being more compact and far more poseable. I highly recommend them, though but only the rubberized ones, not the regular ones. They aren't worth the plastic they are made of. Great stuff!
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I like it |
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June 6, 2012 |
So, is that why your gundams have bent-knee stances in most pics? The search for the perfect hip-joint continues, I suppose. Incidentally, my favorite hip joint is currently the ball-joints that use the rubberized socket pieces. They can hold nearly as much weight as the exo-force click joints, but have the added benefit of being more compact and far more poseable. I highly recommend them, though but only the rubberized ones, not the regular ones. They aren't worth the plastic they are made of. Great stuff! |
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I like it |
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June 5, 2012 |
Hi Chris, just letting u know that LDD is working and I am working on the mech |
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I like it |
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June 4, 2012 |
Very nice of you to share. Great frame |
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I made it |
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June 3, 2012 |
u r correct - although it would be nice for lego to make a 2 wide piece with click socket on both sides. This is click joint on one. I prefer this piece over the double click in most of my creations, legoformer or mech - if you balance the model well it usually doesn't matter - if your not a purest you can also jam some tape in the non ratchet side to solve the issue and make the other joint have more friction!
Quoting Mithryl Altaire
I'm looking at this model, and I'm looking at the hips: I see a clicky socket on one side, but not the other side--do the hips only have one clicky socket or am I just not seeing the other one? Is the other side inserted into a regular technic hole? Sorry, I don't mean to sound critical--just trying to understand. I don't have LDD loaded right now, because my comp is garbage, so I can't see for myself. I've long struggled with clicky joint hips and eventually settled on that black piece that has the two clicky sockets as being the best one, but this doesn't look like that because those hips are a minimum six studs wide. This looks like four wide to me. If you've found a way around this, I would be very interested to know, because that is revolutionary.
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I made it |
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June 3, 2012 |
i replied this morning but it did not show up.. u r correct ratchet is on one side .. but i prefer the 2 wide over the 4 wide double ratchet counterpart - if you balance your model correctly it doesn't really matter that one side is just a technic pin hole. (as you can see from many of may past mech and legoformer models, all free standing) worst case if u r not a purist you can stuff tape in the pin hole side to get more friction!
Quoting Mithryl Altaire
I'm looking at this model, and I'm looking at the hips: I see a clicky socket on one side, but not the other side--do the hips only have one clicky socket or am I just not seeing the other one? Is the other side inserted into a regular technic hole? Sorry, I don't mean to sound critical--just trying to understand. I don't have LDD loaded right now, because my comp is garbage, so I can't see for myself. I've long struggled with clicky joint hips and eventually settled on that black piece that has the two clicky sockets as being the best one, but this doesn't look like that because those hips are a minimum six studs wide. This looks like four wide to me. If you've found a way around this, I would be very interested to know, because that is revolutionary.
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I made it |
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June 3, 2012 |
test |
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I like it |
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June 3, 2012 |
showing off your brilliance thanx for the ldd file |
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I like it |
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June 2, 2012 |
I'm looking at this model, and I'm looking at the hips: I see a clicky socket on one side, but not the other side--do the hips only have one clicky socket or am I just not seeing the other one? Is the other side inserted into a regular technic hole? Sorry, I don't mean to sound critical--just trying to understand. I don't have LDD loaded right now, because my comp is garbage, so I can't see for myself. I've long struggled with clicky joint hips and eventually settled on that black piece that has the two clicky sockets as being the best one, but this doesn't look like that because those hips are a minimum six studs wide. This looks like four wide to me. If you've found a way around this, I would be very interested to know, because that is revolutionary. |
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I like it |
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June 2, 2012 |
This'll be a great help if I ever make something along these lines. Thanks for sharing. |
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I like it |
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June 2, 2012 |
Very interesting! |
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I made it |
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June 2, 2012 |
once in a while i like you guys to see how my brain works LOL
Quoting Marc dZ
Thanks for sharing, that is so nice of you!
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I like it |
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June 2, 2012 |
Thanks for sharing, that is so nice of you! |
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I like it |
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June 2, 2012 |
Very useful. |
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I made it |
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June 1, 2012 |
I have used this frame in a few LDD experiments for S & Gs - the midsection can make the final model a little chunky in the belly but not if you are creative with your building techniques!
Quoting Mithryl Altaire
Interesting frame design--looks very poseable and stable. Its good to see a person who, when they talk about the frame they use, they actually mean a FRAME, and aren't referring to the mech they are building. Mechs are mechs and frames are frames. In any case, a very interesting build in the torso in order to incorporate the pilot. Do you find that this design places a lot of constraints on what torso shapes you can make, due to the large square space required? A couple of suggestions: have you considered adding a second knee joint to allow your mecha to do kneeling poses? I've used it in a number of builds and have found that the stability in most cases isn't significantly affected. One last suggestion: for the feet, you may want to consider a second brick with a "+" hole on the opposite side of the heel as well, to improve stability. With lego mecha, 90% of the foot weight falls on the heels, not the toes. The toes are mostly cosmetic, so it is important that the heels be as stable as possible. Hope that helps!
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I like it |
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June 1, 2012 |
Interesting frame design--looks very poseable and stable. Its good to see a person who, when they talk about the frame they use, they actually mean a FRAME, and aren't referring to the mech they are building. Mechs are mechs and frames are frames. In any case, a very interesting build in the torso in order to incorporate the pilot. Do you find that this design places a lot of constraints on what torso shapes you can make, due to the large square space required? A couple of suggestions: have you considered adding a second knee joint to allow your mecha to do kneeling poses? I've used it in a number of builds and have found that the stability in most cases isn't significantly affected. One last suggestion: for the feet, you may want to consider a second brick with a "+" hole on the opposite side of the heel as well, to improve stability. With lego mecha, 90% of the foot weight falls on the heels, not the toes. The toes are mostly cosmetic, so it is important that the heels be as stable as possible. Hope that helps! |
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I like it |
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June 1, 2012 |
Awesome! I really appreciate the frames, weather I use them or not. |
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June 1, 2012 |
Aw sweet! I think I can make one of these! :D |
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I like it |
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June 1, 2012 |
Awesome! Thanks Sir Roach for imparting your building wisdom. This is very useful. I had no idea how to start a mech that way. Fantastic. ~cheers |
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