Here I would wish to exlore new and different techniques of S.N.O.T. If you have any new ideas, then state them here and post a creation showing how it works! I feel this could esily help us all with building new and improved S.N.O.T. creations.
Well, as seen on my "Hover Taxi," I use a method in which I have two halves of vehicle, each with their studs pointing away from each other, fastened to brackets, which are on a standardly-oriented piece. To get an idea of what I'm talking about, look at pic. 10, 11, and 12 of the car:
secondly, I like to use the slightly more unorthadox in my creations. for example, look at the underside of my "Yellow Jacket" the pieces are actually held together by Bionicle "O" connectors, the light gray, or blue ones, that have one full side and one side that's only half a stud.... I hope that makes sense.
Usually, I'll use special pieces that are attached to a studs up frame. From here, I branch out until I exhaust my SNOT parts. You can see this in my DE 105 Hermes. Recently, I've simply built the whole thing studs forward. I have a Moc in the photo booth that starts studs forward, but then branchs up, and even down. You'll see it later. Permalink
Hey guys, just joined the group today, and I like this idea of a group dedicated to SNOT MOCs and Technique. For those of you that are new to SNOT you may wish to check out my MOC here which may give you some insight to SNOTting a MOC: more specifically making the bottom sides of your creation studless/flat.
The only techniques I've really discovered that haven't been posted here or elsewhere before are following:
The use of the new 2x2x1 rounds w/ axle hole and 8 niches to hold radial 'tap' or 'spigot' (or whatever they're officially called) pieces. This is shown on pics #9 and #10 of the 'Macharius', and is great for adding detail or building a radially symmetrical piece.
Combining a NEW 1x2 joint brick base with a pickaxe, as shown in the Reaper Vine vig, is a fairly sturdy way to get a roughly 45 degree angle joint, and can hold a sursprising amount of weight due to the NEW joint brick bases having a small notch that the tip of the pickaxe fits in-- the old ones don't have this.
Things that I've seen elsewhere and use:
I frequently use jumper plates in very weird ways, use minifig legs as joints and combine various clips with each other (like on 'Wight Knight') to create joints and transitions.
Minifig chainsaw blades are great for switching to the opposite direction in a small space-- the tip has a stud on each side and is only one stud wide. Plus, the tail end can have a clip or peg attached for more SNOT goodness. Permalink
I know everyone hates megablocks, so do I, but they do have an interesting piece that helps create a better S.N.O.T. effect on some creations. The piece is a 4x4 plate with studs on both sides. It happens to be a piece that Lego hasen't made yet. It allows you to attach a flat plate to the underside of a Lego brick. Permalink
hey guys i know this has probubly been mentioned already but using the side of a brick also works as a snot tecnique in fact using the side only leaves mor options when creating.the creation i'm about to show doesn't use this method but it's sword looks interesting.http://mocpages.com/moc.php/144184 Permalink
well, this isn't my original idea, but I think it's still pretty new, so I'll share it here.
For making spheres, stacking plates in concentric rings, making six identical sides, then connecting them on the inside with Modified bricks that have studs on the sides works. To see an example, check out my ShangHai Oriental Pearl Tower, which is composed of 2 spheres connected by a series of isometrically positioned columns. Permalink
Oftentimes when I want to have studs facing both directions, I'll use the Technic piece that's a peg on one side and a stud on the other. The peg can fit inside the bottom of a brick, and you can stick things to the stud. That's what I used for the legs and roof of Metal Gear REX (you can kinda see them between where I switched stud directions) Permalink